color the water: my first surfing lesson
12 Jan 2024i went surfing yesterday for the first time. and holy shit was it fun! you know those moments when you realize your life has been forever changed? well, this was one of them for me. wow. it was such a powerful experience i don’t even know how to start. everything just wants to tumble out of me at once. maybe i’ll write a little bulletted list of all the thoughts and then expand as i can.
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